SCHOOL OF RATS IS CLOSED

Dear Readers,

Due to the long inactivity of this blog, I have decided to close down School of Rats permanently. I am truly sorry for not being able to provide more information about rats via this blog due to personal commitments. However if you are still interested to know more about keeping rats as pets in Malaysia, I would like to invite you to join the Malaysian Mice & Rat Breeder group in Facebook. There is a very large and supportive group of breeders and keepers in this community that I trust will be able to help you with your enquiries about rats.

As this blog has always been receiving good response and have helped many in learning about rats as wonderful beings, I choose to keep this blog on the web, however there will not be anymore updates after this.

Finally, I wish you best of luck, and hope you find your true love in keeping rats as pets.

Love,
Principle Rattus

THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT YOUR RATS

#4 - CREEPY CRAWLERS

Even find yourselves adopting a rat with some creepy crawlers on its back? Ecto-parasites are the external parasites that infect all living creatures. Those that infect rats and mice most commonly include lice and mites. Sometimes, even though it is less common, we see infestations of fleas, flies, or ticks, but since the main ones to affect our pets are lice and mites, this article is only about those nasty critters. Once your pets are infected by external parasites, it can be difficult to treat them successfully, but it isn’t impossible. It is important to understand the life cycle of parasites in order to successfully treat your pets and keep those pesky bugs off of them.

Mites and ticks are classified as arachnids; lice and fleas as insects. Lice, and some mites, can be seen without a microscope, but other mites need to be diagnosed by a vet using the skin scraping method and a microscope.

Although rats and mice may both be infected with lice, those lice will not cross over from one species of animal to another. This also means you will not catch lice from your pets, and if you were infected with head lice, you could not transfer them to your pets. Transmission from mouse to mouse or rat to rat is by direct contact and by fomites (objects).

Both the mouse and rat lice are Anoplura (bloodsuckers), making it vital to your pet that you rid them of these pests as quickly as possible. These can cause anemia, but even more importantly for rats, they may transmit the blood parasite Hemobartonella muris, which is a rickettsial blood parasite similar to tick fever. They may also transmit Rickettsia typhi between rats. The Ricketsia typhi may be passed to humans via rat fleas. These blood parasites can be more deadly to your pet than the lice.

Mites are different than lice because they are not species specific. However, they are generally host specific, meaning they will usually attack only a certain species host, but they will sometimes cross over from one species to another. They will do this if their choice of host is not available. Infestation by mites is called acariasis. There are three categories of mites that infect mice and rats: fur mites, burrowing mites, and the most serious, bloodsucking mites.

Rats may be infected with three types of mites. Radfordia ensifera, the fur mite of rats. They won’t cause problems unless the infestation is heavy or the rat is ill with another disease. Symptoms will be the same as those of mice, patches of hair loss with possible skin ulceration or lesions. These also are not known to infect humans.

Burrowing mites of rats are Notoedres muris. These are the ear mange mites. A skin scraping and a microscope are needed to see these mites. They attack the ear pinnae, tail, nose, and extremities. Lesions caused by this mite are reddened, crusty, itchy areas. These mites are spread by direct contact, so it is important that you keep wild mice and rats away from your pets. They may also infect other rodents, but are not known to infect humans.

The bloodsucking mites that infect rats are Ornithonyssus bacoti. They are the most dangerous to your pets. This one is closely related to ticks and is especially common in tropical and subtropical areas. This is the one that will feed on rodent blood, then drop off to hide in wood products, cracks, and crevices in or near the cage. O. bacoti will cause anemia, and, like the lice, it will also transmit rickettsial blood parasites. These may be seen without a microscope in the bedding or in and around the cage. This mite has a wide range of hosts that includes other rodents, and this one will attack humans. It is transmitted by direct contact with an infected animal, but also may arrive in contaminated bedding or wood products. Be careful not to buy open bags of bedding. Freezing your bedding before using may help eradicate these mites.

The life cycles of external parasites are fairly simple as compared to internal parasites. In order to rid your pets of external parasites you need to understand their life cycles. The adults are easily killed, but the eggs are left behind and will hatch after the first treatment. Mites are arachnids, so they have eight legs. In the mite, life cycle stage one is the egg, or nit, which hatches to stage two, the six-legged nymph (larvae). In stage three, they molt into the eight-legged nymph, and then into the final stage, the adult. It may take only a week for the mites to complete the life cycle.You have to hit them when in the nymph or adult stage of life. This is why it’s so important to disinfect your cage at least once a week, and, anything in it, as well as treat your pets more than one time to kill all the parasites. Disinfecting with bleach is the fastest and easiest way to kill any type of microorganisms in the cage, including bacteria, virus, or fungi. Throw away anything made of wood as the eggs or nits may be hidden in it, and wood is not easily disinfected.

Insects such as lice are six legged creatures. Lice spend their entire life cycle on the host in just three stages: egg, nymph, adult. Their life cycle may be as long as 14-21 days. They lay their sticky eggs (nits) on the hairshaft so you can actually see them. This is where the phrase “nit picking” comes from; you can actually pick them out of the fur yourself.

The life cycle will determine how often you treat, but the type of treatment is also a factor. There are several ways to treat: oral, injectable, and topical. Each type of treatment has its advantages and disadvantages. It’s best to see your vet to get a diagnosis before initiating any treatment, although treatment for most of these creatures is the same.

Ivermectin, dosed orally or as an injectable, is often used safely in rodents, but it is not the be-all, end-all answer to parasite problems. You must still disinfect the cage and everything in it, or you will never stop the problem. Be aware that Ivermectin is a drug, and while it is relatively safe, as with any drug, the possibility exists that it can have adverse reactions in certain individual pets sensitive or allergic to it.

Topical treatments are sometimes safe, but they, too, can cause adverse reactions, and often are not very effective. There are powders, dips, foams, sprays, shampoos, insecticide strips, and guards on the market. Many of these are not at all safe for rodents. The dog and cat flea powders are not safe, they are too powerful and can poison your rat or mouse. The insecticide strips and mite guards for birds also are not safe. Rodents may eat them through the bars of the cage, or the odor from them may expedite respiratory problems, forcing them to be placed so far away from the mice and rats that they are not effective.

Dips, foams, sprays, and shampoos with the active ingredient pyrethrins, at no higher than 0.15%, are fairly safe, and some of them are effective. Pyrethrins are a natural substance that is extracted from chrysanthemum flowers. However, just because it is a natural substance does not mean it cannot be toxic to rodents. If a product is safe for two-week-old kittens, it is probably safe for rodents, but you should check with your vet before using one.

If your rats are miserable, itchy, and developing lesions, think about these nasty bugs, but have no fear because you can get rid of them!

(Jan McArthur, 1999)

MATCHMAKING FOR RATS

(photographed by: Mogolith, finky, 2010)

I have been getting several calls and request lately asking me if I can sell them some fancy rats or not. Well, here's the thing, I used to have friends who breed proper fancy rats but I can hardly find one right now, therefore I can no longer provide you guys fancy rats. What I can propose to you folks out there who desperately want to have fancy rats as your pets is, we can have a matchmaking session organised here in School of Rats. If you have a fancy rat, healthy feeder or lab rat at home, female or male, which is within the age of 4 to 10 months old, healthy and fully grown in shape, smart and tame, pretty and handsome looking, send your request in along with your rat's picture. We will then organise a meet up session for the couple and see if they click and ready to mate. We will then discuss the division of the offspring with the owners before the mating process. If both owners are happy with what they see and listen, I will bring the rats back to do 'what they are supposed to do'. The couple will be returned back by their original owners after they mate and the doe's owner will be reporting to School of Rats for any news in the next 1 month. We will then brief the doe's owner on the method in taking care of the pregnant mother and School of Rats will be visiting and reporting the entire pregnancy progress. Sounds cool? Send us your cute rat's pictures at school.of.rats@gmail.com to find your rat's perfect match.

RAT URINE DISEASE

News about rat urine disease reported in local online news portal

The recent outbreak of rat urine disease or leptospirosis in Kedah and Pahang may have frighten some of the pet rat owners out there. Let's us first learn a little about this disease from the infamous Wiki. Leptospirosis, also known as Weil's disease, Weil's syndrome, Rat Catcher's Yellows and Pretibial fever, is a bacterial zoonotic disease which can affect humans, other mammals, birds, amphibians, and reptiles. Leptopspitosis is caused by spirochaete bacterium call Leptospira spp.. The disease is said to be a relative rare bacterial infection in humans and the infection is commonly transmitted to humans by allowing water that has been contaminated by animal urine to come in contact with unhealed breaks in the skin, eyes or with the mucous membranes. Although rats, mice and moles are important primary hosts, there are plenty of animals such as dogs, deer, rabbits, hedgehogs, cows, sheep, racoons, possums, skunks, and certain marine mammals are able to carry and transmit the disease as secondary hosts. Symptoms of leptospirosis include high fever, severe headache, chills, muscle aches, and vomiting, and may include jaundice, red eyes, abdominal pain, diarrhoea, and rash. The symptoms will appear 4-14 days after contracting the disease. If not treated or wrongly diagnosed, the patient may face meningitis, liver damage, and renal failure and eventually lead to death. One can prevent this disease by staying out from high risk area. So here's the question, will we get leptospirosis from our pet rats? The answer is yes and no. Yes, if your pet rat has already contracted the disease before you have even brought him/her home. If your house is free of wild rodents, there is almost zero chance that your pet rat is carrying the bacteria. Bear in mind that not only rats and rodents can carry the bacteria, other house pets or even human may be carrier for the bacteria. If anyone in the house is found with the disease, everyone should be treated as well. As long as you keep an eye on their whereabouts and keep their food and water clean, you are all safe from this horrible disease.

THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT YOUR RATS

#3 - BITE ME? BITE ME NOT?

Do rats bite? The answer is 'yes' and 'no'. Among all rodents rats bite the least, however they do bite by mistake or when they become defensive. Unlike wild rats, fancy rats are familiar with human contact therefore they hardly bite. Throughout the years of me keeping rats, I've been bitten by rats several times and each time was for different reason. My first rat bite and also the most violent bite was by Milo's mom. I remembered meeting her when Milo and her siblings were about a week old in a near by pet shop. I went towards her cage and pointed at her for a second and 'ouch!', there she went and chomped off a small piece of meat on my finger. The wound took a month to recover. This kind of bite is unusual and it only happens when the rat feels defensive. Every once in a while, you'll forget that rats are pretty close to blind and you'll stick your finger in the cage to give your ratties a fur rub before washing your hands after touching food. Some rats, without fail, will think you've got more food because your finger smell just right, and they'll try to grab it really fast. Rats have good control on their bites. Before their teeth puncture into your skin, they are able to distinguish whether they are biting food or not, then only decide to bite further or not. This bite usually looks like simple paper cut. Tickle used to do this a lot, probably because of her poor eyesight because she's an albino.

THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT YOUR RATS

#2 - YELLOW TEETH

Do your rats have yellow teeth? Don't you worry because it's not a sign of rotting teeth. Rats teeth are naturally coloured with a yellowish pigment which is the natural colour of a rat's enamel. The enamel is the hardest layer on a tooth as the protection shield to a tooth. Rat's incisors started out white when they are infants, but by the age of 21 days the upper incisors will start to have a slight yellow tinge. By 25 days, the uppers are distinctly yellow and the lower incisors have acquired a little yellow. By 38 days these colors are more intense, with the uppers having more color than the lowers. The relationship between more pigmented upper incisors and less pigmented lower incisors remains true throughout the rat's life. In adult rats, the uppers are dark yellow-orange and the lowers are yellow (Addison and Appleton 1915). In short, it is best to have your rats having yellowish teeth because that indicates that their calcium level is good.

THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT YOUR RATS

#1 - PORPHYRIN

Ever realise the red discharge that looks like blood around your rats' eyes or nose or both? Relax.. It is not blood, but instead it is an organic compound known as porphyrin (pronounced por-fur-in). Porphyrin is produced by the harderian gland located behind the rats' eyes. Porphyrin is like the mucus in our nose but red in colour. Small amount of porphyrin is normally found around the nose of the rat when he first wakes up, or when he sleeps for long period. However, owner must monitor the rat's condition and behaviour to tell what amount of porphyrin is consider as normal discharge. If there is a sudden increase of phophyrin discharge, it means that the rat is having some problem. Stress is one of the reasons a rat will produce excessive amount of porphyrin. Another reason for a rat to produce excessive phophyrin is a rise in body temperature or he is suffering some sort of illness. Although porphyrin does not always mean something is wrong, in many cases it does, and it should never be overlooked.

(OUT OF STOCK!!) LAB BLOCK'S AVAILABLE!!

Good news to all rat and mice keeper. Lab block is now available at School of Rats. It's suitable for rats and mice that were previously under a nuts and seeds diet (ex: hamster mix). Rats that were under Suebee's diet or other human grade food diet may not like the taste of lab blocks. However, as mentioned in a previous post, lab block is the specially formulated food fed to rats and mice kept in laboratory and zoos. It is considered as the perfect diet for rats and mice as providing all necessary nutrients in appropriate quantity in order for the animals to remain healthy. It is good to start your rats' and mice diet with lab block, especially baby rats and mice.

We are now carrying Lab Blocks. Below is our price list.

500 g pack (for 1 month use**) RM 15

1 kg pack (for 2 months use**) RM 30

1.5 kg pack (for 3 months use**) RM 45

2 kg pack (for 4 months use**) RM 60

** estimated period of use is for one rat only

* Bulk price available for more than 5 kg orders

Email to us at school.of.rats@gmail.com or call 012-9252886 to place an order.

WE'RE IN HAVEN

School of Rats has been featured in the pets@home section of the October and November issue of Haven. Haven is a sister magazine of the EDGE, a Malaysian financial and investment paper. The interview was done before Tickle and Blacky pass away. Too bad they couldn't live to see their article being published in a magazine. They should know that they were the few famous rats in this world. Hopefully the article help in promoting keeping rats as pets.

Due to copyright reason, I cannot show the readable format of the article. However, the magazine is complimentary with The EDGE, or you can get it in any magazine stands for RM 4.90 per copy, or you can call up the EDGE Retail and Subscription Department at (03) 7721 8142/8151 for subscription enquiries. You can also visit www.theadgemalaysia.com for more details.

MICE AND RATS ARE NOT THE SAME

Finally, I went back and picked up the newly adopted pets from my sister. But turn out to be, those 'rats' that she was taking about are MICE!!!

It's a common misconception of the people here and this is not the first time that someone mistaken a mouse as a rat or vice versa. I even had an experience once that when I called up a local veterinarian for enquiries about the treatment for my rats, and this was what happened:

Me: Hello. I need some medication for my rat.

Vet: Rat? What kind of rat? The white ones?

Me: Yes. I have 2 white rats and 1 with brown hood.

Vet: Oh I see.. You mean MICE. -_-''

Me: No. They are rats, not mice.

Vet: They are the same..

Me: .... (this is where I went speechless)

In the Chinese language, both rat and mouse share a common name which is lao shu (老鼠), but one but know that they are very much different. The scientific name of fancy rat is Rattus Norvegicus whereas the scientific name for fancy mouse is Mus Musculus. They both fall under the Rodentia order, Myomorpha suborder, Muroidea superfamily, Muridae family and Murinae subfamily, but their genus and species are different. To make things easier, they are just very far related. One must understand, mice are rats' food in a way. They cannot be kept together. Click this link for more information about how mice are consider food for rats.

It might be difficult to describe their differences with words, with the pictures below, it should the clearer.

The size is the most obvious difference between a rat and a mouse. A full grown rat should be 9-11 inches long without the tail. Whereas an adult mouse is only 3-4 inches long excluding the tail.

A rat

A mouse

Rats have shorter head and robust body compared to mice. Their ears are smaller relative to the head and their tails are shorter than their body. Hence the illustrations of a rat and a mouse are usually easily distinguish.

So can you tell the difference between Remy and Despereauex?

Despereaux

Remy

NEW ARRIVAL

I just received a special call from my sister who works with animals and she told me that she just rescued two baby rats from the place she work. They were supposed to be the food for an eagle tomorrow, but I guess not anymore. I told Milo about it and she has been grinding her teeth since then. I'm going to pick them up this weekend. More updates about them coming soon.

CARING FOR A LONE RAT

One thing I hate of being in Malaysia is the fact that to look for a fancy rat here can really be a pain in the ass. After looking high and low, it still seem hopeless for me to find a high quality fancy rat. As you all know, Tickle passed away not long ago and Milo desperately needs a companion. Rats are highly sociable animals and they need companions, best of their own kind, in lives. When situation like this occur, when one of two rats died, normally you will need to get some new rats to accompany the lonely and grieving rat. Or else, conditions such as depression and autism. Some of the signs of these conditions include self mutilation by chewing her nails, plucking her own fur, or chewing on her own tail or she may be unresponsive and refuse to eat. It is a very bad idea to keep only one rat as rats that live alone often live shorter lives. Besides, it is unnatural to let a rat live but its own.

The National Fancy Rat Society of the UK stated that, a single rat is often happy, whenever you are playing with it. But when you are asleep, or out at work or school, or simply going shopping, the single rat can get bored and lonely. It has nothing to do whenever you are not around. Unless your rat is with you literally 24 hours a day, it is inevitable that it will be bored sometimes. Rats do not sleep throughout the night like us - they wake and sleep at intervals throughout the day and night. They are often particularly playful during the night, when most humans are asleep. Even if you were the rat's perfect human - never apart from it, and sleeping only for an hour or so at a time - you could not provide it with the same sort of companionship as another rat, simply because you are a very different species. You would not, for example, communicate with it, or (presumably!) groom it with your teeth the way another rat would.

However, I am now torn apart from making an important decision - whether to get Milo some young feeder rats as her companions or keep her along until I can find fancy rats to stay with her. The reason is obviously in Malaysia, the availability of high quality fancy rats is just too little. And after Tickle's incident, I'd really like to minimise the chance of raising an unhealthy rat and end up seeing him leaving the world early and painfully. In Malaysia, there are not much rat breeders who breed rats healthily for keeping purposes. Most breeders do not control in-breeding and do not do selective breeding as they are breeding only feeder rats. Hence the production of so many unhealthy rats. Bad genetics and bloodlines are being carried on generations after generations. I do not wish to risk the lives of my pets. Meanwhile, I am trying my very best to keep Milo company. She hasn't show any mutilation and has no sign no depression, she just look bored most of the time in her cage. I let her out of the cage most of the time and let her run around the room.

Milo's laying on her favourite spot

Below are some tips provided by CuriousRats.com of how to keep a rat alone.

If you do have a rat that is kept alone for one reason or another, you will have to take on some care considerations that you would not need to for a pair or group. One thing you will need to do is for a very close bond to him and have him with you a LOT. Carry him on your shoulder while you do house work and allow him several hours of supervised playtime in a rat-safe room. Hold him on your lap or let him explore while you watch TV or movies.

Play with your rat on his level. By petting him, you can imitate social grooming. Most rats really enjoy petting, and being touched is essential to a rat, especially if he doesn't have contact with other rats. You can play with him by tickling his sides and stomach. Your rat may play back by pouncing your hand or giving you a playful nip (not a bite, but a nip, like a kitten would). If you can sit cross-legged, he can curl up and sleep on your lap, feeling your warmth, or on your shoulder or the back of your neck.

Provide lot's of toys to keep him interested and busy when you are asleep or at work or school. Wooden bird toys and bells that can hang in the cage are fun and inexpensive. There are also some "rat toys" on the market such as Bordom Busters. You may want to consider getting a wheel. Young rats and females often enjoy running. Get one with a solid running surface and at least one side enclosed, if possible, for safety and privacy. Also provide boxes and tubes and other things to hide in. A hammock, bed (like a ferret bed), or blanket of some sort will also provide some comfort and security. On cold nights or if he gets sick, you may want to put a hot water bottle or heating pad (on low and with a folded towel on it) under part of the cage. Also, keep the cage in a room where there is human activity and traffic. Rats like to feel like they're part of the action.

Your rat may be able to have a playmate sometimes, whether it is another rat or a guinea pig or rabbit. Be very cautious about having your rat with another animal and always supervise. Rats, especially singly kept ones, can be territorial, so allow them to interact with other animals ONLY on neutral ground outside their cage.

Remember, that without a cagemate, your rat will bond to only you and/or another person they get to interact with. If you go on vacation, he could become lonely or depressed, so you may have to try to make arrangements to bring him along or have a friend who he knows and trusts and who can give him lots of attention petsit for you.

DEAR TICKLE

Dear Tickle,

I knew you since you were a baby. I still remember the first day I got you home, you were so frighten. Before this you were living together with your brothers and sisters, but there were only you and one of your brother left in the cage when I bought you from the pet store. You were a feeder rat back then. You didn’t like me touching you and always hide yourself from me. It was such a miracle moment to me the first time you took the piece of kua chi from my hand. I spend most of the time worrying about you. You were always the delicate one to me. Your home, your food and your sister were all specially picked for you. I only sung to you so that you could sleep soundly. I am the one who named you Tickle, because you like to run over you daddy and me and tickle us.

A week after getting you, we went to look for a sister for you, and that’s how we got Milo home. I still remember the first time you met Milo. She was so much tinier than you and you just didn’t care much. You jumped on her and started tickling her. After a short wrestling session, you two became good friends. You used to hug her to sleep and gave her your food and always protecting her. Milo grew up strong and active, and turned out to be Milo was the one keep giving us the headache, and you, as always, being nice and always contented at what you had.

I miss seeing you guys chasing at each other around and around the cage. You look so healthy and happy back then. You and Milo are two smart rats. You remember me teaching you your names, how to stand, and you will always know what it means when I open a plastic bag - **that’s our secret**. I always feel guilty for not being able to let you two out from the cage that often because I’m afraid that you two might bite holes on your daddy’s clothes. You must have been very angry at me huh. Although I did not fulfil my promise of bring you guy out for shopping, I hope you enjoy our trip to Taiping together, and I hope you are happy for meeting so many people in your live. To be honest, I am very pound of you and your sister. You two have changed so many people’s thinking and make them fall in love with rats.

I am sorry for not being able to take good care of you and protect you at all times. I shouldn’t have left you at the living room those days and let you inhale second hand smoke or attacked by cats. I am so sorry that I did not give you a bigger cage for you to run around, and I am sorry for not providing you the best quality food and health care so that you can live long and healthy.

I couldn’t do much at the final days when your health deteriorate. I can only hug you in my arms and hope that it will make you feel better. And you never disappoint me and always show me that you were okay by grinding your teeth. You were always there for me, happy and sad times, but I wasn’t there for you when you really needed me. I even made you promised that you can never leave me when I’m not around, but I guess you hung on there for too long.

I just wish you could stay longer. There are still so many things I wanna tell you. I can no longer call Tickle & Milo anymore. Can no longer say good night to you and see you first thing in the morning. You rest in peace baby Tickle. Mommy will take good care of Milo and promise to protect her like you do. I love you Tickle. Milo loves you. Daddy loves you too. Good night forever. We miss you. I'd give anything for you to come back. I cannot stop crying now, but don’t worry.. I will stop when the time comes.

Love you forever and ever,
Mommy

SHOW THEM YOUR LOVE

Ask any rat keeper in this world and they will tell you the same thing - rats are the sweetest creature ever. Rats are loyal and affectionate. They will always notice your every single movement and hoping that you'd come over and check on them. For us, we have so many things in our lives to care about and we have things that will keep us entertained, schools, work, friends, family, movies, shopping mall, etc...; but for the rats, they only have one thing in their life to look forward for, which is us. So it is our responsibility as an owner to ensure that they receive the deserving attention from you. Show them that you love them too by petting, rubbing, massaging, scratching, kissing, cuddling, grooming, fondling, tickling them. These are some healthier ways to make your rats feel happy beside giving them treats. But bear in mind that, all rats are individuals and what one rat likes may not be what another rat likes. My Milo loves me scratching her back and would stay still for hours for me to scratch and eventually fall asleep. Tickle however loves petting and cuddling. She'd let me hug her in my arms and pet her for hours and if I've pet her long enough, she'd grind her teeth and slowly falls asleep.

RIP Blacky

Our extraordinarily smart Blacky passed away yesterday (5th August 2009) on a rainy day. He was the smartest rat. He knew his name without us teaching him and he liked to walk with his hide legs all the time. He has a pair of huge ears and very good in escaping. We will always remember you Blacky. Love you so much. Rest in peace. I believe that you are in good hands now.

TRAINING YOUR RATS - Part 2

Now that your rats have learned to understand the training process, you can proceed to more fun tricks.

Rat basketball

Step 1: Prepare a piece of ping-pong ball and crack holes on it, and a small and shallow container that is secured to a flat surface

Step 2: Introduce the equipment to your rat and let him have some time to get use to it

Step 3: Give your rat a treat every time he interacts with the ball

Step 4: Hold the ping-pong ball near to the container and place your rat in front of the container. Make use the ball is close enough for it to fall into the container not needing the rat to do much.

Step 5: After he has mastered step 4, move your hand a little further from the container with the ball on your hand.

Step 6: After mastering step 5, place the ball on the flat surface and let you rat place the ball in the container himself.

Step 7: Only reward him when he place the ball in the container

Video demonstration: http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to/video/how-to-train-your-pet-rat-to-play-basketball-243248/

Platform Jumping

Step 1: Set up two platforms at about the same height

Step 2: Place the platforms close together, call out the command 'Jump!' and lead him across with a treat.

Step 3: Repeat the process and gradually increase the distance between the platforms.

Tightrope Walking

Step 1: Place two chairs 10 cm apart facing back-to-back to each other

Step 2: Tie the two ends of a rope with the thickness of at least 3 cm in diameter on the two chairs

Step 3: Place a pillow underneath the rope

Step 4: Place your rat at the back-rest of one chair and give him a treat

Step 5: Call out the command 'Walk!' and lead your rat across to the other chair with a treat

Step 6: Treat your rat after each cross

Step 7: Repeat the process and gradually increase the distance between the chairs

TRAINING YOUR RATS - Part 1

Rats are highly intelligent animals and can be trained to perform simple tasks. Rats are trained to perform in magic tricks, television shows and movies, to carry cables through walls, to be companions for autistic children. Rats' adaptability, intelligence, and focus enable them to be trained in a short amount of time. You can also train your pet rats to perform some simple tricks or tasks at home. The training session should be enjoyable for both your rat and you.It is best to start to train your rats as young as possible. They can be trained as young as 3 weeks old. Look for a time when your rat is most active and responsive to perform a training session. There are a number of tricks that you can teach them. Few of the simple ones will be to come when their names are called, to stand and stay on command, and to toilet train them.

A food reward is typically the best way to change and reinforce behaviour, but constant reinforcement with food is only needed for the early stages of teaching a trick. Once your rat learns a given behaviour, switch to a variable schedule of reinforcement, rewarding only the best examples of the desired behaviour. Rewarding a learned behaviour on occasion is actually more effective than using a constant, predictable schedule or reinforcement; when the rat doesn't always know when to expect a reward, he works harder to get it (Petster, 2008). The food reward you offer should be something different than their usual menu. Yogurt drops and dried fruits are some healthier options for food reward. If they do not show interest in those reward, you can use some human food, such as jelly, cookies, and cereals to keep your rat interested.

Know your name

Step 1: Place your rat a few feet away from you but within reaching distance so that he can still sense your actions and in case he tries to run away.

Step 2: Call you rat's name and signal it with your body gesture to get his attention. If he doesn't come over to you, put the treat near to his nose and guide him to you. Reward him when he follows you.

Step 3: Place him back to the same place and repeat Step 2 until he loses interest.

Step 4: Call his name frequently when you're working with him as another way to help train your rat to respond to his name. Call him by his name when you are playing with him, holding him and giving him affection.

Step 5: Go to his cage and when he comes over to greet you, say his name and give him a treat to train him to respond to his name.

Stand and Sit on command

This trick is very useful if you wish to bring your rat out often. Many owners enjoy having their pet rats sitting on their shoulder while doing other things in hand. This trick also train your rats' ability to focus, to be patient, and to be discipline. Remember to use a consistent command so that you don't confuse your rats. Body gestures (consistent) or sound such as claps and whistle will further help them to enhance their memory.

To Stand

Step 1: Hold a treat above your rat and call the command "stand!"

Step 2: Your rat will sniff the treat and follow the treat; hold the treat high and guide your rat to stand.

Step 3: Give the treat to him as soon as he stands and praise him.

Step 4: Repeat the steps everyday and practice the trick until your rat stands for you whether you give him a treat or not.

To Stay

Step 1: Place your rat on you shoulder and call the command "Stay!"

Step 2: If your rat attempt to run away, hold a treat near to him to get his attention. Tap your shoulder again and call the command to bring him to your shoulder.

Step 3: Try to walk around with your rat on your shoulder. If he tries to move, call the command "Stay!", and praise him and give him a treat if he does.

Step 4: Repeat the steps frequently until he is use to staying on one spot quietly without a treat.

Step 5: After he is used to staying on your shoulder, you can slowly train him to stay on command in any other place.

Toilet training

Rats are clean creatures and will go to the toilet where they smell that they, or other rats, have already gone. This method can only work for their droppings, not urine. Nevertheless, litter training makes things much easier for you when you are cleaning the cage. It is also cheaper to do so, as you can now replace the bedding with fabric and only use replaceable bedding in the litter pan.

Step 1: Find the corner of the cage that your rats usually go to the toilet, then place a litter pan filled with litter inside.

Step 2: Pick up all their droppings in the cage and some old bedding and place them in the pan.

Step 3: Remove all the bedding from the cage and wash it with natural soap. Dry it and place a different type of bedding in the cage (old towels, recycle shredded paper...) . It's essential that your rats can distinguish between the toilet area and the living area.

Step 4: Place your rats in the pan to introduce them the toilet. If they shit elsewhere in their cage, tell them 'No!' and place the droppings in the litter pan. If they use the litter pan, give them a treat and praise them.

Step 5: Repeat the steps consistently.

ADOPTION

Adoption for rats are available in School of Rats. We need no adoption fees but only good owners. Our rats need good care, food and shelter. Send a email to School of Rats to adopt them.

Fill in the details below to apply for the adoption and send it to school.of.rats@gmail.com

Full name: 

Preferred name:

Age:

Nationality:

Experience in keeping pets:

Reasons for adopting: 

Contact number:

Address: 

**Terms and conditions apply

A NOTE FROM PETA

Find out more about mice and rats here.

BATHING TIME

Giving baths to your rats may be the worst nightmare for you and your rats. Most rats are not use to water, hence it is better if you teach your rats to get use to water as young as possible. Here's a trick you can try to help your rats get use to water. Place a big clay bowl enough for them to sit and stand inside in the cage. Fill the bowl with lukewarm water (not too hot). Remember to remove the bedding and replace them with a dry newspaper. Let them hangout in the cage with the bowl of about 15 minutes. They will probably drink it, but the point is to get them use to the water body. 

After getting them out of the cage, bring them to the bathroom and close the door. They tend to freak-out and will try to run away. So communication is very important. Tell them what you are about to do and pet them softly. Have a few towels and a bucket of lukewarm water prepared with you before you begin. For the first few times, or for baby rats, it is not advisable to put your rats in any water. You can have it stand on your palm with a towel below, then wet your another hand with some water and apply on it slowly. It might get a bit jumpy so you'll have to keep talking to it. It is normal if your rat poop a little because of anxiety but do not let the condition last for too long. Continue wetting it until its fur is entirely wet. Apply several drops of small animal shampoo on it and rub on it. Be careful not to get any water or soap into your rat’s eyes or ears. When you feel the rat is clean, pour water on it gently and rinse until it's clean. Again, be careful not to get any water in the rat’s eyes or ears. Make sure that there is no shampoo residue on it as it might eat it is when grooming itself. After the bathing process is complete, transfer your rat to a dry and clean towel and pet it dry. Repeat the bathing process every week and your rat will get use to it. Till then you can try letting your rat swim in shallow water or just run it under gentle shower. Remember to give your rat a treat and a warm hug after each bath to show that it has done a good job.