TRAINING YOUR RATS - Part 2

Now that your rats have learned to understand the training process, you can proceed to more fun tricks.

Rat basketball

Step 1: Prepare a piece of ping-pong ball and crack holes on it, and a small and shallow container that is secured to a flat surface

Step 2: Introduce the equipment to your rat and let him have some time to get use to it

Step 3: Give your rat a treat every time he interacts with the ball

Step 4: Hold the ping-pong ball near to the container and place your rat in front of the container. Make use the ball is close enough for it to fall into the container not needing the rat to do much.

Step 5: After he has mastered step 4, move your hand a little further from the container with the ball on your hand.

Step 6: After mastering step 5, place the ball on the flat surface and let you rat place the ball in the container himself.

Step 7: Only reward him when he place the ball in the container

Video demonstration: http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to/video/how-to-train-your-pet-rat-to-play-basketball-243248/

Platform Jumping

Step 1: Set up two platforms at about the same height

Step 2: Place the platforms close together, call out the command 'Jump!' and lead him across with a treat.

Step 3: Repeat the process and gradually increase the distance between the platforms.

Tightrope Walking

Step 1: Place two chairs 10 cm apart facing back-to-back to each other

Step 2: Tie the two ends of a rope with the thickness of at least 3 cm in diameter on the two chairs

Step 3: Place a pillow underneath the rope

Step 4: Place your rat at the back-rest of one chair and give him a treat

Step 5: Call out the command 'Walk!' and lead your rat across to the other chair with a treat

Step 6: Treat your rat after each cross

Step 7: Repeat the process and gradually increase the distance between the chairs

TRAINING YOUR RATS - Part 1

Rats are highly intelligent animals and can be trained to perform simple tasks. Rats are trained to perform in magic tricks, television shows and movies, to carry cables through walls, to be companions for autistic children. Rats' adaptability, intelligence, and focus enable them to be trained in a short amount of time. You can also train your pet rats to perform some simple tricks or tasks at home. The training session should be enjoyable for both your rat and you.It is best to start to train your rats as young as possible. They can be trained as young as 3 weeks old. Look for a time when your rat is most active and responsive to perform a training session. There are a number of tricks that you can teach them. Few of the simple ones will be to come when their names are called, to stand and stay on command, and to toilet train them.

A food reward is typically the best way to change and reinforce behaviour, but constant reinforcement with food is only needed for the early stages of teaching a trick. Once your rat learns a given behaviour, switch to a variable schedule of reinforcement, rewarding only the best examples of the desired behaviour. Rewarding a learned behaviour on occasion is actually more effective than using a constant, predictable schedule or reinforcement; when the rat doesn't always know when to expect a reward, he works harder to get it (Petster, 2008). The food reward you offer should be something different than their usual menu. Yogurt drops and dried fruits are some healthier options for food reward. If they do not show interest in those reward, you can use some human food, such as jelly, cookies, and cereals to keep your rat interested.

Know your name

Step 1: Place your rat a few feet away from you but within reaching distance so that he can still sense your actions and in case he tries to run away.

Step 2: Call you rat's name and signal it with your body gesture to get his attention. If he doesn't come over to you, put the treat near to his nose and guide him to you. Reward him when he follows you.

Step 3: Place him back to the same place and repeat Step 2 until he loses interest.

Step 4: Call his name frequently when you're working with him as another way to help train your rat to respond to his name. Call him by his name when you are playing with him, holding him and giving him affection.

Step 5: Go to his cage and when he comes over to greet you, say his name and give him a treat to train him to respond to his name.

Stand and Sit on command

This trick is very useful if you wish to bring your rat out often. Many owners enjoy having their pet rats sitting on their shoulder while doing other things in hand. This trick also train your rats' ability to focus, to be patient, and to be discipline. Remember to use a consistent command so that you don't confuse your rats. Body gestures (consistent) or sound such as claps and whistle will further help them to enhance their memory.

To Stand

Step 1: Hold a treat above your rat and call the command "stand!"

Step 2: Your rat will sniff the treat and follow the treat; hold the treat high and guide your rat to stand.

Step 3: Give the treat to him as soon as he stands and praise him.

Step 4: Repeat the steps everyday and practice the trick until your rat stands for you whether you give him a treat or not.

To Stay

Step 1: Place your rat on you shoulder and call the command "Stay!"

Step 2: If your rat attempt to run away, hold a treat near to him to get his attention. Tap your shoulder again and call the command to bring him to your shoulder.

Step 3: Try to walk around with your rat on your shoulder. If he tries to move, call the command "Stay!", and praise him and give him a treat if he does.

Step 4: Repeat the steps frequently until he is use to staying on one spot quietly without a treat.

Step 5: After he is used to staying on your shoulder, you can slowly train him to stay on command in any other place.

Toilet training

Rats are clean creatures and will go to the toilet where they smell that they, or other rats, have already gone. This method can only work for their droppings, not urine. Nevertheless, litter training makes things much easier for you when you are cleaning the cage. It is also cheaper to do so, as you can now replace the bedding with fabric and only use replaceable bedding in the litter pan.

Step 1: Find the corner of the cage that your rats usually go to the toilet, then place a litter pan filled with litter inside.

Step 2: Pick up all their droppings in the cage and some old bedding and place them in the pan.

Step 3: Remove all the bedding from the cage and wash it with natural soap. Dry it and place a different type of bedding in the cage (old towels, recycle shredded paper...) . It's essential that your rats can distinguish between the toilet area and the living area.

Step 4: Place your rats in the pan to introduce them the toilet. If they shit elsewhere in their cage, tell them 'No!' and place the droppings in the litter pan. If they use the litter pan, give them a treat and praise them.

Step 5: Repeat the steps consistently.

BATHING TIME

Giving baths to your rats may be the worst nightmare for you and your rats. Most rats are not use to water, hence it is better if you teach your rats to get use to water as young as possible. Here's a trick you can try to help your rats get use to water. Place a big clay bowl enough for them to sit and stand inside in the cage. Fill the bowl with lukewarm water (not too hot). Remember to remove the bedding and replace them with a dry newspaper. Let them hangout in the cage with the bowl of about 15 minutes. They will probably drink it, but the point is to get them use to the water body. 

After getting them out of the cage, bring them to the bathroom and close the door. They tend to freak-out and will try to run away. So communication is very important. Tell them what you are about to do and pet them softly. Have a few towels and a bucket of lukewarm water prepared with you before you begin. For the first few times, or for baby rats, it is not advisable to put your rats in any water. You can have it stand on your palm with a towel below, then wet your another hand with some water and apply on it slowly. It might get a bit jumpy so you'll have to keep talking to it. It is normal if your rat poop a little because of anxiety but do not let the condition last for too long. Continue wetting it until its fur is entirely wet. Apply several drops of small animal shampoo on it and rub on it. Be careful not to get any water or soap into your rat’s eyes or ears. When you feel the rat is clean, pour water on it gently and rinse until it's clean. Again, be careful not to get any water in the rat’s eyes or ears. Make sure that there is no shampoo residue on it as it might eat it is when grooming itself. After the bathing process is complete, transfer your rat to a dry and clean towel and pet it dry. Repeat the bathing process every week and your rat will get use to it. Till then you can try letting your rat swim in shallow water or just run it under gentle shower. Remember to give your rat a treat and a warm hug after each bath to show that it has done a good job. 

RATS FEEL

Comments of most rats owner said that the reason why rats make such good pets is because they are very affectionate towards their owner. Yes, rats have emotions and can have feelings towards things around them. Happy, sad, stress, worry and scared. Rats which have high intelligence and they are one of the few animals that have complex formation of emotions. If you would have spend enough time knowing your rats, you can actually tell what they are feeling or thinking. Most of the time, you can tell their emotions by looking at their ears. When their ears are up high, means they are alert. Probably they are scared, or they are curious about something near by. A frighten rat is very easy to identify. They will be sensitive to any suddenly sound or movement, even to their owner. A rat which are badly frighten, will not leave it's cage or it's hiding spot, not even for food or water. Rats are afraid of their natural predators instinctively. They can scene their presence from a distant without a direct contact. 

A frighten rat

A happy rat however is always eager to play with you. When a rat is happy, they will respond to food or treats and commands immediately. Basically a rat is very easy to feel contented. Usually they will be very happy during feeding time, playtime, or times which are spent with their owners. Teeth grinding is another way to show that they are contented. If they are in their cage with their playmates, they would groom each other to show their affection to another. Some rats will even lick the owners' hand or groom their owners' hair when they stand on the owners' shoulder. That is just their way of saying 'I like you'. If look closely, you can actually see a rat smile when they are happy. 

Rats don't usually feel sad unless something bad happens. Rats which have strong bond with their owners will be sad if they find that their owner is not happy. My rats will actually lick my tears off my face when I'm crying and they will sit beside me until I feel better. You can also know if your rats are feeling down. They will not move as much as usual, or probably just stare at one spot. Their ears will be down and will not be as responsive as normal days. Some rats will get very depress if a long-time cage mate leave them or pass away. They will also be sad if they are left alone for too long or they miss their owner too much. 

FOOD.. YUMMY YUMMY

Rats can eat almost anything. Yes.. Almost. Rats are omnivores. Hence there is no fix rat diet which you need to follow strictly as long as they can get all the nutrient they need. Keepers from the overseas give their rats food which is specially made for rat because they are easily obtainable in pet stores there. Lab blocks or commercially prepared block-type food contains all basic nutrients that a rat need in its diet. However, according to ratsrule.com, commercial rat diets are full of ingredients that are either inappropriate for rats or simply aren't liked by rats. So unless you have access to high quality lab block, such as Harian Teklad, it is not advisable to use commercial rat food. Whereas, rat keepers here in Malaysia would create their own mix for their rats' staple diet. Rats need a mainly vegetarian diet with some animal protein. An example of a rat's diet will be mixture of fruits, vegetables, oat, sunflower seeds, spaghetti, wholemeal bread, cooked chicken bones, eggs and baby biscuits. It is not advisable to feed hamster mix to rats. 'Most mixes contain tiny seeds and alfalfa pellets that do not get eaten. Rats have a hard time digesting alfalfa, so they rarely eat it. Peanuts and other nuts, while enjoyed by rats and fine as treats, contain too much fat and protein to be a staple part of a rat diet. Finally, dried corn can not only contain fungus, but also creates nitrosamines in the stomach, which can lead to cancer' (ratrule.com). It is best that the food given do not contain preservative and colouring, and the food is low in salt and sugar. (carefully examine the ingredient used in the kibbles as well). These substance will cause dehydration, hair loss, diarrhea or many other complication to your rats. Bear in mind that male rats cannot tolerate high protein level as female rats. Ensure that there is a constants supply of clean, fresh drinking water. For treats, owner may consider using baby food, yogurt, fruit salad, steam corn, yogurt, cooked rice or pasta, biscuit, cheese, etc.. because rats basically like them as much as we do. A minimum amount of chocolate chips can be given. Rat, unlike cats and dogs, is one of the few animals that can take chocolate. Bare in mind, food that is healthy for humans is healthy for rats. Avoid food that will cause gas because rats are unable to pass gas for the rest of their lives. So gassy food such as potato chips and carbonated drinks might give them stomach ache instead.

Suebee's rat diet is one of the most recommended rat staple diet as it contents correct amount nutrients a rat needs (closest to lab block). Here's the recipe

1. 400 g dry rolled oats

2. 150 g puffed wheat cereal

3. 180 g puffed rice cereal

4. 340 g children vitamin/ mineral tablet, or small animal vitamin

5. 140 g roasted, unsalted soy nuts

6. 230 g dried fruits

7. 230 g dry pasta

8. 2/3 cup sunflower seeds

9. 120 g sugar-free muesli (optional)

YOUR RATS' COMFY HOME

Both wire cage and aquarium can be made as houses for rats, but one must know the advantages and disadvantages both of these houses before using them. The choice must be suitable for both pets and owners.

An aquarium will protect the rats from drafts, but has poor air circulation which makes it warmer and more humid than a wire cage. An aquarium is also more difficult than a wire cage to decorate and to provide levels for climbing. A 20-gallon tnak (75.7 liter) will house one or two females or males and would need to be cleaned twice a week since the rats are living in their litter, unlike in a wire cage where they can climb up onto shelves. Tanks make it difficult for the owner to interact with their pets. Rats housed in aquariums need daily out time to provide necessary exercise (RMCA Resource, 2002). Aquarium can however avoid bedding from falling out of the rats' house which some owner might find it a hassle. Plastic tanks are lighter in weight and can make perfect travel carrier for rats. 

However, wire cages give good air circulation to the rats and provide surfaces for the rats to climb. Wire cages encourage more interactions to the owner. Wire cages also allow decorations such as hammock, sleeping pouch, ramps, levels and climbing ropes which encourage the rats to move and play around. Wire cages should be powder coated, not galvanized, as galvanized wire will corrode in time as rat urine burns it away. The cage floor should be solid, not wire, and shelves should be solid (RMCA Resources, 2002). Wire flooring is often the cause rats' foot or leg fracture and sprained. 

Whichever house a owner choose to give to a rat, be sure that there are plenty of rooms for the rat to grow and move around, especially when one is getting a baby rat. Cages for hamsters are not suitable for rats because the size of the cages are not big enough for a full grown rat to live healthily and happily. Cages which are too small will cause stress to the rats living in them and some might even turn out to be smaller in size. Make use of the rat cage size calculators available online to estimate the cage that you should buy, or you can calculate the size of your rat cage by using the formula stated at the end of this post. Big bid cages and sugar gliders cages are some of the options for rat cages in Malaysia because there are not much cages catering for rats here. But be sure that the floor is not wired floor. Write down your budget and the size of the cage that you are looking for, bring a measuring tape and visit a reputable pet shop to pick the cage of your choice. 

Wooden cages or wooden levels are unacceptable for rats as their urine will soak the wood, causing ammonia build up, which can lead to or exacerbate respiratory disease (RMCA Resources, 2002). Rats are able to chew through wooden products as well, hence wooden cages allow them to escape. 

RAT CAGE FORMULA (in inches)

WITHOUT LEVELS: Height x Length x Width = Cage volume (cubic inches)

WITH LEVELS: Height x [(Length + Levels' length) x (Width + Levels' width)] = Cage volume (cubic inches)

Divide cage volume with 3456 = Number of rats that can live comfortably in the cage

1 inch is about 2.5 cm

If there are levels in the cage, the width and length of the levels should be taken into calculations as well

SEX YOUR RAT

Male and female rats both make good pets. Females are smaller in size and more slander in shape. Female rats are naturally curious creatures. Hence they are more active compared to a male rat. Females like to explore new things such as going new places or doing new tricks. And because of this reason, female rats are easier to be trained to do tricks or to perform in a show. Female rats like to be clean. They will decorate their own cage and groom or clean themselves very often. Their fur is also softer and also gives less odour compared to male rats. On the other hand, male rats are bigger in size and more robust in shape. Although male rats are not as curious as the females, they do still love the company of human. Males are normally happier sitting on your lap and having you scratch their head. Keepers must remember not to put male and female rats together if you do not wish to breed them. Rats breed like hot cakes and easily gone out of control. Sex the rats that you are going to get yourselves or go with an experienced keeper so avoid getting the sex that you do not wish to get. 

Basically the only way to differentiate a buck (male rat) and a doe (female rat) during young age is by seeing the difference on the sex organ. The sexing can be done at 4 days old onwards. Testicles are visible on male rats and nipples are visible on female rats. However, it is hard to tell the sex of a rat by looking at the reproduction organ (penis and vagina) when it's young, but by looking at the distance of the urethra and anus can roughly tell the difference. A doe's urethra is slightly nearer to the anus compared to a penis to the anus of a buck. A doe's bottom will shows a V shape as for male will be the shape of a W. 

Read more about sexing rats on:

http://www.ratz.co.uk/sexingrats.html

CHOOSING YOUR FIRST RAT

Before getting any pet for yourselves, you must be sure of what you want and what can you provide for your future pet. One must remember that keeping a pet is a long time commitment, and that includes time, effort and money commitment. Rodents such as hamsters, guinea pigs, fancy rats are a few common choice of keepers who live in apartments. Unlike cats and dogs, rats' care requires less attention and rats have relatively shorter life spent. There are a few things that must be decided by the keeper before getting any rat. 

BE A WISE AND RESPONSIBLE KEEPER

Just like keeping any other pets, rats need lots of care and love by their owner. Although some might argue that rats require less attention from their owners compared to dogs and cats, fact is, they are social animals that naturally live in large colonies. Just like us, rats need friends and companionship. No rats should be kept isolated from its own kind or its keeper for too long. There are records of rats that suffered from mental disorder due to loneliness. Certain amount of socialising is necessary so that a bond of trust can be formed between the owner and the rat. 

To be a responsible keeper, one must first ensure the well-being of his/her pet. Precaution must be taken by separating rats of different gender to prevent unplanned pregnancy. Rats breed very fast and most of the time, it cannot be controlled. Abandon rat cases happen almost every time due to accidental litters. Therefore, control measurements should be taken before hand. You don't want to see the children of your pet rat end up in the dumpsite or in the belly of a predator. 

You as a keeper should understand that rats need to live in a proper environment. It is your responsibility to provide them a home that can provide them comfort and safety. A cage with adequate space, ventilation, temperature control is compulsory. Keepers should also be  responsible in supplying clean and safe bedding, fresh food and water for their rats. They should be protected not only from natural predators, but also from diseases, pain and suffering. 

One should know to keep a pet, be it a cat or a rat, their lives are in your hand. You should give them the best you can. They can sense, feel and love like everyone of us can. To you, a rat may be just a rat, but to your rats, you most probably mean the world to them. So start and be a wise and responsible keeper today.